Peaches and nectarines – prunus persica and P. persica var nectarina

Contributed by Linda

These are deciduous trees which grow to 3-5 metres in height and have a spread of 3-5m. They are hardy to half-hardy. The slightly sweeter nectarine is simply a smooth skinned peach: nectarine trees are less hardy than the peach and need a little more care in their siting and treatment. Both are excellent trees for the small garden. The fruit should be picked when just ripe and it has the maximum of flavour and sweetness.

Trees can live for 10-15 years.

Some types of peaches and nectarines (there are many more!)

All fruit between November and January.

Planting

* Peaches and nectarines can be grown from Brisbane to Tasmania.
* Plant in early winter. They need some winter chilling.
* Soil should be well-drained as the roots produce cyanide in water-logged soil.
* Peaches prefer neutral soil as they will show signs of iron and zinc deficiency in alkaline soils.
* Trees can be planted as close as 1.5-2.0m if they are fan-trained to a trellis. If grown as a ‘V’ shape, they should be spaced at about 5-6m.

Note that dwarf varieties are now available at some nurseries.

Harvesting

Crops from 4 years onwards. Peaches and nectarines tend to over-bear so thinning the fruit when it is 2-3cm in diameter is important. Fruit is ripe when it comes off easily. Eat within 4 days of picking or store by bottling. Try making peach leather*.

Cultivation

These trees need more nitrogen than most fruit trees. No food, no new growth, no fruit. Apply plenty of blood and bone (or other sources of nitrogen) in autumn, and some summer irrigation to swell the fruit. If you are relying on mulch break-down to provide the nitrogen then apply it when the fruit is maturing. Indeed, temporary nitrogen starvation as the new mulch breaks down will give the fruit a better colour.

Encourage earth worms with green manures, mulch and compost.

Pruning

Peaches and nectarines need heavy pruning as they carry fruit on one-year-old side growth. Prune in late autumn. Productivity decreases if trees are left unpruned. Initially prune to leave 4-6 main branches radiating from the main trunk, keeping the centre open to allow good air circulation. In mid-summer thin the voluminous new growth leaving at least 10cm between the laterals- these will carry next year’s fruit. Mid-summer pruning will help in the development of large well-ripened fruit.

In autumn, shorten the wood that has borne fruit down to one or two buds. These buds will bear next year’s fruit.

Pests and diseases

* peach leaf cut worm
* two spotted mite
* scale insects
* aphids
* mildew
* fruit fly

For fungal infections, organic spray with the copper based sprays such as Kocide or Bordeaux can be used. Lime-sulphur will inhibit growth of fungal spores.

Fruit fly is very problematic in our region. The most effective way (but probably the most labour intensive) is to bag the fruit before the fruit fly can sting your growing fruit. Strong paper bags are available which withstand the rain but allow the fruit to ripen.

*Peach leather

Skin and stone the peaches. Sieve and spread over a greased try. Dry the slices in a cool oven or in the sun. Take the peaches in over night! When the fruit is hard, peel it away from the pan, wrap in grease-proof paper and store in air-tight jars. Eat the leather just as it is or reconstitute it by soaking in boiling water.